14th may, day 24, Saturday- Beatrice
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| View over Lake Kariba |
We all woke up roughly around 8 and had a nice breakfast in camp. We took our time getting everything sorted and headed to town. We drove to the information place to buy 2 Nyami- Nyamis- one for me and one for Alex. When we arrived and informed the sellers we wanted o buy- they immediately bombarded us with every type of Nyami- Nyamis one could ever wish for. Good to know, the Nyami- Nyami is a water spirit of the dam and the story goes that the male Nyami- Nyami wants to break through the dam wall to get to his wife, the stream at the bottom of the huge dam.
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| View over Lake Kariba |
Anyway Alex and I both eventually chose one each and we headed off to Spar. I had proclaimed the evening before that I wanted to make a dessert and so in Spar I bought…well actually Daddy did, but anyway I chose long life cream and Bar Ones to make Susan’s famous Bar One sauce (thanks Susan). We also bought some fish and other goodies and looked for the Country Club. It was not too hard to find and when we entered the main area a man greeted us by asking how’s Namibia. Obviously we were surprised but then mummy realised we had asked that man for directions the day before. We sat down and absorbed the beautiful view of Kariba. We ordered spring rolls…well actually sping rolls since they spelt it wrong, crocodile samosas and beef samosas to share. I tasted the crocodile but I’m sorry to say it was not pleasant, even though everyone else seemed to like it, so I stayed with the spring rolls instead. We watched two little children swim in the pool and with the help of binoculars found our campsite, which looked miniature in the distance. Then we spotted a crocodile farm and decided we would visit that later. We bought some really nice bananas and went to the top of the mountain, where the view was even more spectacular.
So we went off to find the crocodile farm. When we finally located it they had a big welcome sign, but when we asked to enter they said it was closed, which was pretty annoying. On the way home we passed several elephants.
We went back to camp and had a nice swim. Alex tried to drown me a couple of times but all in all I survived. I read in camp while the rest went for their sun downer and caught up on the news. We all prepared the supper and it was very tasty! First daddy’s famous coleslaw, followed by rice with veggies and onions with grilled fish and to top it all off bananas with bar one sauce! It was really good! And so the day ended and I went to bed.
Day 25, Sunday, 15th May Alex
Well today was quite an exciting day.
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| Nyaminyami and open sluice gates |
Firstly I got up at around 8 and then we had the usual breakfast and shower. After all that we discussed what to do today. We knew that the Sluice gates were going to be opened today. So since it was only around 9 we first went to TM to buy food for next stage of our journey.
Then came the Kariba dam wall, it is an absolutely humongous wall of pure cement. There was a seriously big cascade of water coming out of the gates. I wondered if the story of Nyaminyami could be true if the water of the Dam was mixing with the water of the Zambezi?.
Then came the Kariba dam wall, it is an absolutely humongous wall of pure cement. There was a seriously big cascade of water coming out of the gates. I wondered if the story of Nyaminyami could be true if the water of the Dam was mixing with the water of the Zambezi?.
For those of you who don’t know the story of Nyaminyami, well then you’re in for a treat because I’m about to tell it to you.
In 1960 the government of Zambia and Zimbabwe decided to dam up part of the Zambezi. In that time Nyaminyami, the water spirit, was still with his wife in the water of the Zambezi. Then when the Dam wall was built the two were separated and it is said that Nyaminyami is full of rage and sorrow that one of these days he will break through the wall and the spirits will be together again.
I think it’s quite a sweet story, but coming back to my query. The fact is that the water from the dam was mixing with the water of the river?.
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| Kariba Camp |
Well any way after seeing enough rainbows (from the spray) and water, we decided to have some lunch. We went to something like the country club in Windhoek, because it had a bar, casino and a restaurant. The food was not great, but I got to taste crocodile and to my surprise it is quite tasty. It was a very strange building because it was painted pink and built in a Mexican style.
After that we did the same as every day at Kariba. Swimming, Sun downer on the floating raft and then cooking dinner. We had sausages and leftovers for supper. Then I was forced to wash the dishes, but kindly Beatrice helped me so it was not too bad then we packed our bags for the next day. Then sleep.
Day 26, Monday, 16th May, Cathy
Another moving day!! But this is a special moving day. We get up early, my alarm goes for 5.30, school getting up time. Chris’ goes at 5.20 which is just that ten minutes too early! With astounding speed and efficiency we shower, demolish the tents, prepare our overnight bags, have breakfast and head off to catch the Kariba ferry to Mlibisi. It will be a 22 hour trip but on the calm water of the lake it should be nice and gentle and it cuts out the agony of the road to Binga which was bad 20 years ago in Wim’s Peugeot when we only drove the Binga/Bumi Hills section. With shot shocks it would be agony. Last night was almost full moon and the hippos were frisking on the lawns, well not quite; hippos only frisk in Walt Disney movies. We arrived at the Ferry along with several other cars. We only made one false turn on the way so our practice sessions were on the whole worthwhile.
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| Our Car backing up onto Ferry |
We found ourselves in a classic ‘hurry up and wait’ situation, a line of vehicles waiting patiently for the gate to the ferry place to open at 8am. Eventually at around 8.30 the gate opened and a few people emerged to look at the cars. By that time the two Germans from our camp site had arrived in their very large camper van. The ferry chap seemed to think that he could fit them on – good thing that we had spoken to them yesterday.
The loading process was a bit of a nail biter, the drivers had to back onto the ferry up a narrow ramp with two strips for the wheels, glad I wasn’t driving, I have enough trouble driving forwards onto the ramp at the garage. Chris whizzed on with no problem unlike some of the other drivers who struggled a bit. A Jeep even managed to overheat on the short journey up the ramp.
The problems started with the unplanned trailer that had to be found place and then the camper van had to be found a larger space than normal. One bakkie had to be bounced around so that it could be parked sideways, Alex joined the bouncing team. Fortunately the camper van had a skylight that the driver could climb through since, being the last to park, his door had only centimetres of space to the sides of the neighbouring cars. Most people had to climb through to the co-driver’s seat to get out of their cars.
Once everyone had boarded the boat there was an undignified scramble for seats and an equally undignified scramble for places to sleep in the cabin but once everyone had stopped scrambling and settled down traveller’s tales were exchanged and people started to relax a bit. The host on board, Alan, made sure to chat to everyone so that people felt welcome. Tea and coffee and biscuits were served and in the kitchen you could see the cooks preparing lunch. Beatrice whipped out her homework, the rest of us settled down with our reading, occasionally looking up to see how close we were to the land.
Lunch was good, chicken and ham and salad with cheese and biscuits afterwards, service polite and friendly as always. The afternoon heated up somewhat and many people put the sleeper chairs in position for a snooze. Later on around the time that afternoon tea was being served (they don’t stint on this trip!) we came close to Bumi Hills and there were elephants drinking and playing at the edge of the water. We also spotted impala and a kudu. We could see the place where we stayed all those years ago on the SNV visit and it looked as if a new hotel had been built, all thatched roofs and exclusivity.
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| Sundown on Lake Kariba |
The group is coming together and sharing stories about family and life. The other travellers are all, apart from the German couple, from South Africa but are quite a mixed bunch. At sundowner time fried kapenta is offered as a snack. One of the travellers looks at this askance, I tell him to give it a try he will find it surprisingly nice. No, he says; I only like to eat meat, I don’t even like to eat vegetables. I said that he must be a farmer. Yes, a sheep farmer; that explained everything. The sun sets in the west in a blaze of red just as the moon is rising in the east but there is a breeze and so there is no brilliant red reflection on the surface of the lake. There is a proper silver trail to the moon though. The boat has to stop for a moment and Beatrice takes advantage to jump in and have a brief dip, hardly a swim, the skipper comes to say that we are about to start so she has to climb out quickly.
Day 27, Tuesday 17th May 2011 (Christof)
Initially the night was balmy and we and many others dragged mattresses out on the front deck and slumbered away with the gentle lapping of waves just in front of us and the engine sound far at the back – big toe around the small thin blankets provided. However, around 01:00 I wake up to a stiff nippy breeze. Many of the people have moved inside already, so its quite full inside. I’m looking for a second blanket, but they’re all in use. Cathy and Marlis have moved inside too already. So I get my warm fleece jacket out – at least the upper part of the body is warm.
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| Breakfast on Ferry |
Stirring of the masses starts early, in the dark. The full moon is starting to set and the faintest of light on the eastern horizon. When I go for a hot shower at 05:30 I’m surprised that I’m t5he first (in one of the 2 male showers). Tight, but practical and clean. Cathy says that there were even nice smelly soaps in the female showers.
First tea, coffee and cereals are served and later (almost) full English breakfast. After that we’re almost at Mlibizi. It takes quite a while to adapt the height of the landing gear, but in the end everyone is off. There is still a US$10 charge by National Parks per person, for ‘having used the lake’. Soon we’re on the road the Hwange, but by misinterpretation of the map (metal signboards stolen …) we later find ourselves travelling in the wrong direction (to Binga). Just before lunch we reach Hwange Game Lodge, just outside the Game Park. We’re taking a drink with a view over the vlei and soon the waiter presses the right buttons and we’re having snack omelettes as well. The huge complex seems to be well maintained, but virtually deserted – waiting for better days. In general, it seems, that people perceive that better days are around the corner – the introduction of the US$ & R are seen as the first step.
Soon we’re moving on to the nearby offices at Main Camp of Hwange National Park. Unfortunately, Msuma Dam, one of the fenced-in observation points where one party may overnight at a time, has been booked for the night already. So we decide to press on the Sinamatella Camp, and from there try to book Msuma Dam for the subsequent night. The road is quite patchy and with our broken back shocks (from Mana Pools) progress is slow. At the first observation post, Nyamandlovu, there is virtually nothing of note, but at the second one, Guavara, things are lively with a to and fro of small herds of elephants, giraffes, zebras and kudus. Indeed, these viewing platforms are very pleasant and should be introduced in Etosha as well. By the time we’re looking at our watches, we realise that there is no way we’re going to make it to Sinamatella (90km) before dark. Also the rest of the loop road from Sinamatella back to the main road is supposed to be ‘very’ bad. So we decide to relax a bit more and go back to Main Camp (33km), where we arrive back just before dark.
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| Group of Elephants |
The whole complex is virtually deserted, the campsite, made for 60 has a sum total of 4 parties, one of them, the german ‘panzer’, we know already from the ferry. Because we’re a bit late, the attendant has not put fire wood by the campsite. So we’re camping near the place where they chop the fire wood, so we can take to our heart’s desire. The place we have chosen, has had a fire on the ground before. Soon we have a roaring fire on the go. Because of this, it is the nicest campsite (for me) on the whole trip. Soon the hyenas’ chorus is in full swing and the hippos are snorting with gusto.
Day 28, Wednesday 18th May 2011 (Beatrice)
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| Walkway at Painted Dog Centre |
We all woke up early, and it was freezing!! We drove to the observation post, Nyamandlovu, to see some early morning beasties. It was definitely not swarming with animals but a herd of wildebeeste strode by and there were three hippos in the waterhole. Otherwise there were of course, birds, but most importantly there were two blue starlings that were very close to us, as in 3 inches away. The more outgoing starling, we called Ralf, stole some muesli from us but didn’t dare try again.
After we finished our breakfast on the observation point we headed back to camp to pack up. When all things were in the right place and we were all clean and ready we began our drive to Victoria Falls. It was not a long drive, so after two hours we arrived and booked in for a small self catering lodge on the riverbank, where Daddy and Mummy and her parents had stayed before. It was very nice. We unpacked and while Alex and Marlis stayed in the house the parents and I headed for town. First of all we went to a TM supermarket and were amazed by the variety of products. When we were at the till we saw such a cute thing, a Mum with her one baby on her back and next to her a little girl with a teddy strapped to her back, wanting to be just like her mother.
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| At Victoria Falls Hotel Buffet the evening entertainment |
After our little shopping spree we went to the Victoria Falls’ hotel and the view was phenomenal! When you stepped out onto the terrace you saw the bridge over the Falls framed by the surrounding trees. It was all very classy. We made our enquiries about the buffet dinner, which Daddy really wanted to show us, for he had been there once and had enjoyed it immensely and set off back to our lodge. We lounged around a bit and made ourselves presentable for the evening. In the evening we drove to the Vic Falls hotel and Daddy delivered us to the door like a chauffeur. We walked through the gardens to the pavilion and seated ourselves down outside.
Then the feast began! The presentation was fantastic and the variety unbelievable, too much to describe! While we were eating a director (I’m guessing) came and informed us that there will be some entertainment. Loads of traditional dances involving drums and singing in traditional wear. Mummy liked the one with the crocodile costume and Alex liked the one with people on stilts. It was interesting hearing all the stories that go along with the dances. We ate till our hearts desire and went to bed with full stomachs.
Day 29, Thursday 19th May 2011 (Alex)
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| Victoria Falls |
Hi it’s me again. In general today was a nice day.
It first started with me getting up, of course, at about 8 o’clock. Then having a breakfast of orange marmalade on toast, it was very nice but Marlis was adamant that she would make the toast, which turned into a complete flop. For the second batch we kindly threw the idea in that Beatrice should make the toast, but Marlis then said, thinking it was a joke, you guys don’t trust me to make the toast. And guess what… the toast was only done on one side. But ja one can’t be good at everything. Sigh. Anyway after that unfortunate, yet still scrumptious breakfast we discussed what we would be doing today. And as it turned out much to my surprise that the town Victoria Falls is situated right next to the Victoria Falls and thus making it very convenient for us to visit them. It was the first time in my life to see the falls from the Zimbabwean side, so I had high expectations. We drove to the parking place in front of the Falls, where we bought our selves new Nyaminyamis. Then while still at the entrance we discovered that the entry fee was much higher than on the Zambian side, plus one could only go in once, not a day pass which was pretty cheeky.
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| Alex & Beatrice in front of the Falls |
Once in the “park” daddy and Marlis went off without us, thinking that we had left them. Then we went looking for them, but sadly in completely the wrong direction. So let me fast forward but still give you the essence of what happened. Mummy threw a wobbly, we got soaked from the water spray and we saw quite a bit of the falls without them. Yet in the end all ended well, we found them and the proceeded to get wet and see the falls together. Because it was high water season one could hardly see anything, because of the spray. After that we drove around seeking an office for a sun downer cruise. In the process we also bought a lot of old Zimbabwean money.
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| Sundowner cruise |
The rest of the afternoon was taken up with reading, me carving on a makalani and just chilling. Then at around 15:40 we made our way to the jetty where our sun downer cruise boat would be launched. We were greeted by a group of people dancing and singing in cultural dress. The cruise itself was fun we had an open bar with no limit and then we a couple of “mouth watering “ snacks or that’s what or host said but in reality it was just the usual sun downer snacks, for instance a chicken leg and a small piece of pizza with a small pie, you know finger food size. The sun going down was not so spectacular because it was slightly overcast, but we did see a lot of hippos, sadly though no crocs. I told Marlis that crocs were extremely dangerous shoes that liked floating around on the Zambezi, for some reason though she didn’t believe me, strange.
We didn’t have supper, because we had filled up on snacks. We didn’t do much that night we just read and the previously mentioned stuff.
Tomorrow we make our way back towards Windhoek, yeah. I’m looking forward to be back and seeing my Molly, I haven’t seen her in 5 weeks, that is a long time.
Now reflecting back on my entire holidays I must say that they were absolutely brilliant and would gladly do them again someday.
Day 30, Friday 20th May 2011 (Cathy)
Second to last day of the holiday and yet again we are moving on. We wake early and have a leisurely breakfast on the verandah, fried tomatoes because they were frozen in the fridge overnight and baked beans on toast for all except me. I suggest frying the bacon as well but Chris says don’t bother, more on this topic later!
By now we are expert car packers and whizz through the clearing up and packing. We tip the park attendant who has looked after our lodge for us and drive into town, firstly to buy a couple of T-shirts for Romana and Helles and then to stock up on Mazoe in the supermarket. I still don’t understand why it is bulging off the shelves here in Zimbabwe and not available in Namibia. It is sooo much better than any other orange squash.
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| Ungoma Bridge |
Elephants are snacking off the trees along the road to the town, wart hogs are eating the grass, no lawnmowers needed here and on the road to the border with Botswana we also pass elephants and a tatty looking group of ostriches. The border crossing is complicated by the regulation against carrying unprocessed meat into Botswana. We the passengers tramp through the disinfectant and wait on the far side of the wheel dip as Chris is asked to open the cooler box for an inspector who extracts, yes! The bacon! As well as a pack of sausages that we somehow overlooked when making supper in Hwange. She did give us the option to cook the meat there and then but surely a packet of bacon is not so crucial. Eventually we drive through the top end of Chobe game park, no animals to be seen but the mopane forest is very lovely. We have to sign in an out of Chobe, presumably to discourage side trips to the river into the park. We cross easily into Namibia at Ngoma over a very swollen Chobe river on its way to add to the already overflowing Zambezi. The borders are quiet and the officials are unharassed. On the Botswana side we encounter an official who has quite impressively learned German from tourists. We re-set our watches to Namibia time, one hour back, getting up will not be so painful tomorrow morning.
Home!!! Namibia!!! Decent bread!!! We stop at the Pick and Pay supermarket in Katima and immediately meet Gaby Hendrichsen from Swakopmund who is escorting a group of tourists. Two steps further on and even more surprising Marlis meets an ex-colleague from her work in Hamburg on holiday with her husband. Ah! Yes this is Namibia! There is something very civilised and reassuring about the parade of familiar shops in Katima and the layout of the Pick and Pay. We buy broetchen for lunch Hey!!!
The road through Caprivi is straight and practically free of traffic, easy driving but tending to the soporific. I take over the driving for the first time in weeks as Chris feels the need to nod off. We pass into the game park. Lots of elephant warning signs but no animals of any sort to be seen. There is a bit of human settlement in the park - condoned?
Past Divundu and Chris takes over the driving again. We have decided to make for Rundu tonight and so Hettie’s lodge at Divundu remains unvisited – next time, although she is probably in Windhoek since Junie starts school at DHPS on Monday along with Alex and Beatrice. Night falls about half an hour before Rundu and so we all look out for animals on the road to help Chris avoid any unwanted encounters. We do not find our usual camping place in Rundu, Its too dark to search for it but we do find a very acceptable alternative. The price is quoted to us in Namibia dollars of course but Beatrice is still thinking in American dollars and nearly passes out when the young woman says 50 dollars! Per person! Per night!
Beatrice and I make spaghetti carbonara adapted for Brock tastes. For Beatrice the most vital ingredient is the cream. I thought there was too much food but it disappeared remarkably fast. Chris’ salad was lettuce based for the first time in weeks. Lettuce is too expensive in Zim and not very nice.
Day 31: Saturday 21st May 2011 (Christof)
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| Last Camp |
We’re so used to getting up early (in Zim time) that we’re up early to “another f***ing perfect day in the tropics” (quote from book/movie ‘White Mischief’ that Cathy and me find appropriate to quote from time to time). Breakfast with view over the Okavango river. After so many days packing up is a fast routine … last time today!
A quick turn by the place where you have a good view over the Okavango river (west end of the parallel road) and the ubiquitous photo taken. Then it’s a matter of setting the steering wheel towards Windhoek (only!! some 700 km) and setting the cruise control to 120 km/h and going to sleep in the back: “Wake me up when we’re there!”. Of course, we’re passing many schools where, for a k or two speed has to be reduced to 80k, the odd goat or dog crossing the road, and so the hours and 100s of kms are passing by. A well-disguised speed trap long before Grootfontein therefore poses no threat. Marlis wanted to see the captive lion at Kalkfontein, but Mufasa is sleeping in the high grass under a tree in the distance and is ‘not to be disturbed’.
Lunch at the Superspar in Otjiwarongo, where I always stop over with my colleagues from work. The tramazini are still a knock-out price and quantity wise.
Just before 5 we’re at home, where we find everything in good order. Home, sweet home! We travelled just over 6,000 km in total and spent just over N$10,000 (Euro 1,000) each.
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